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 on: 13, March, 2017, 07:26: 
Started by cliff - Last post by cliff
After resolving electrical problems due to a faulty starter motor I have two outstanding symptoms that have stumped me.

I replaced the starter motor and the starting battery and reset the BSI.  I have driven over 100km in highway conditions. I have scanned the Fault Codes  using an el-cheapo Diag tool but there were no clues from there. An auto electrician has tested the second Services battery (that he installed 2014) and he says it is still OK.

Firstly, when I use the direction indicators, left and right, they always work but sometimes they flash faster than normal and then I get a blown globe alarm. I can't read the multi-function display (its unreadable at 25C) so I don't know which globes it is reporting. Needless to say I have checked both the front and rear globes and re-seated them all. (but not the side lights). All 6 globes are ok. The flashing is always normal speed when I activate the Emergency Flasher  button.

Secondly, the front and back cabin lights do not work when the car is unlocked or when  a door is opened. The courtesy lights in the bottom of all four doors do work. The map reading lights in front and back will operate when the ignition key is in the first position. But again the front central light does not respond to being switched on.

Can I have some ideas from this community to help me fix these problems? Thanks.

 on: 18, May, 2015, 13:19: 
Started by cliff - Last post by cliff
Due to 4HP20 gearbox failure in 2002 Peugeot 607 my specialist transmission mechanic recommends I source a replacement (not new ) heat exchanger as soon as possible. My current one is not faulty but they are known to corrode in time and allow coolant to mix with transmission fluid.
Does anyone know the compatible part numbers/suppliers of these parts? I have tried various search engines to no avail.

Solved.  OEM was Modine  0501209925

New price $AUD 1,200.00 + freight from France !!

Fingers crossed it doesn't fail before I sell the car.

 on: 09, June, 2014, 12:48: 
Started by cliff - Last post by cliff
Problem was solved in May 2014 (!)  Embarrassed when I repaired  broken earth wires in the cable form goose neck behind the boot hinge.

 on: 25, May, 2014, 20:29: 
Started by cliff - Last post by cliff
Problem identified and solved.
I found three (3 !!) broken wires in that cable form goose neck under the boot hinge.
Two earth wires and one signal wire that happened to be the brown wire going to the latch.
When I repaired all three (with bullet connectors) not only did I get my boot remote back but also the boot lamps that have been o.o.s. for a year!

 on: 09, May, 2014, 22:47: 
Started by cliff - Last post by cliff
I have followed several threads that address this problem across various models and portals.
Neither the remote keys nor the O button would open the boot.
Synching the keys had no effect.
With the car locked, the boot remote still opened the doors as it usually does but not even a sound near the boot.

Luckily a back seat was down at the time so I could crawl into the boot space with a torch. I had no trouble accessing the latch with a long handled screw driver and so I tripped the latch through the small hole that is mentioned in other threads.
Thank goodness for that.

This is a 2002 V6 3L that I have owned since 2009. So I know by now that these cars can test your loyalty.
Based on my suspicion that the Services battery may be the cause I checked voltages and compared with Starter battery.
I have replaced the alternator within the last 12 months so I had discovered the two battery operation.
The Services battery  had more than 12V but not the 14V I was hoping to see from the charging source. The Starter battery was much closer to 14V.
Anyway after manually closing and opening the latch a few times with the screw driver I decided to risk closing the boot again and testing the operation. It worked a few times from the remote but not from the button (I think).

So I have isolated the Services battery and put the charger on it. Fingers crossed. If that solves the problem for a day at least I'll be replacing the Services Battery.

Next morning....installed the battery following battery reconnection procedure. All is well...for now. Visited my battery supplier (NRMA Batteries) and their battery checker device suggests to replace the battery. BTW, the old battery is vintage 2007, not 2002. But NRMA couldn't supply on the spot and couldn't tell me what model battery I needed. The old battery with 2007 date stamp was a Peugeot supplied model. So I wait until Monday for them to identify the replacement type and make me an offer.

So the replacement came to this autoelectrician from the Peugeot parts dealer at Peter Warren Motors. It has Peugeot labels and a TECNIC logo. The other interesting   label is " Li D 12v 40AH". Exactly the same as the old battery.

It cost me $300 which is twice the price of other 40AH batteries.

Yes, it fixed the problem.

Well aren't I the blind fix it guy. The problem returned after 2 days! What's going on. The boot will not open by remote key or the "O" button.

I've changed batteries in remote keys.
I swapped the lock mechanism for a spare that I had. I've removed and opened the lock assembly  and checked the micro switch operation.
I've followed BSI reset procedure.

Is this another dry joint somewhere in the wiring? What triggers it back to life occasionally. Humidity ?

I use the boot a lot. This is driving me nuts.

Liontamer ?    Sad

 on: 06, November, 2013, 18:02: 
Started by dominic - Last post by Proxy
Dominic is selling the car and is no longer interested in this topic.
I'm going to put up the information we have collected for him anyway, as i'm sure it will be of interest to other 206 drivers.

It's a Peugeot 206 5 door saloon 1.6 TU5JP 90 HP 5 speed manual. ABS, 2 250W two speed cooling fans.
DAM is: 08628 83. It was built on the 23. Jun 2000
The informatin provided here is aimed at assisting with the diagnosis of engine management power supply issues.

The engine ECU in this model 206 is located under the bonnet just behind the right headlamp. (1320)
Underneath the ECU you find what's called the Engine mangement multi-function double relay. (1304)
The double relay is supplied with Bat. + from BM 34 fuse 26. BM 34 is the fuse box on the left side under the bonnet.
This relay powers up the fuel pump, fuel injectors, ignition coil and parts of the engine ECU.
The path to the fuel pump is from the relay via inertia switch, fuse 25, to fuel pump.
The vehicle is also equiped with an inertia switch that cuts power to the fuel pump in case of an impact.
The inertia switch, fuse 25, fuse 26 and the double relay are the 3 items to be checked first, in case of an inoperative fuel pump where power to the pump is absent.

A word of caution:
When trying out replacement Multi-function Double Relays as a diagnostic procedure it is important to use the corrct relay type. There is a variety of these relays that look similar but are different in their layout and are not interchangeable.

(1320) Engine ECU Pinout:

(1304) Double Relay Pinout:
The relay connector is a 14 pin connector. Not all positions are in use.
The relay has two switching coils. This means it has two switches or two groups of outputs.

Pin 2, 8, 11 and 14 are supplied with Battery + from fuse number 26.
Pins 2 and 14 are for the energiser coils, pins 8 and 11 are providing power to the internal switches.
There are 4 pins for power input but there is only one power supply to the relay.

Pins 7 and 10 are relay control. The ECM provides earth to energise the relay coils.

Pins 1, 4, 5, 6, 9 and 14 are outputs.

Pin  1 Power to the ignition coil on coil pin 4.
Pin  4 Power to (1215) purge canister solenoid valve pin 1
Pin  5 Power to (1320) ECU pin 33.
Pin  6 Power to (1620) vehicle speed sensor pin 1
Pin  9 Power to BM 34 two way white connector pin 1, providing power for fuses: 25, 28 and 34. See blow for distributin from fuses.
Pin 10 Power to (1320) ECU pin 15.
Pin 13 Power to all fuel injectors pins number 1. All number 2 pins from the fuel injectors go to injector control at the ECU.

As an extension from Pin 9 here are the details for the 3 fuses.
Fuse 25 - (1203) Inertia switch pin 1 - (1210) Fuel pump pin 3.
Fuse 26 - (1270) Throttle housing heater pin 1.
Fuse 34 - (1350) Oxygen sensor pin 1. (sensor heater)

Double relay schematic:
Put image here.

Work in progress.

 on: 02, November, 2013, 09:09: 
Started by dominic - Last post by dominic
hi guys
i would like to thank you all for the information that you have been giving me,
i am gutted to say that i have decided to sell the car/breaking, i am so gutted to do this i have had the car for only a year now and spent £2000.00 on bits and bobs and i think its time i cut my looses,

but thank you to everyone for trying to help me with this


Link to ebay removed by administrator.

 on: 01, November, 2013, 08:09: 
Started by dominic - Last post by dominic
Hi and thank you for your reply  Grin

And thanks for helping me in trying to get to the bottom of this :-
My Vin Number is VF32ANFZE41024616
BSI INFO IS       S 105872400  - 9627137080
ECU NUMBERS    0 261 206 216  - 96 326 939 80

any info in resolving this would be a great help,  Cool
I have only had the car a year and spent a few ££££ on her the past 12 month and don't really want to scrap her,
I Have been made redundant recently and cant really afford a garage at the moment,
So all your input would be of grate help,  Cry

Again Thank you

Kind Regards


 on: 29, October, 2013, 18:09: 
Started by Tony 2 - Last post by Proxy
Here is some preliminary information.
I have to go and dig in my old documents to find the information on this problem.

The trouble code P0410 is interpreted as follows:
"Secondary Air Injection System Malfunction"

In most cased that means the air pump is faulty and needs to be replaced. The pump may still be working
but the system detects a current draw that is outside the specified limits of a good pump.
Usually the current is too high. 12 amps or more.
While high current is most of the time caused by a faulty pump, a restriction in the suction side or pressure side will also cause
increased current fow.
A blocked air intake or a blockage in the air passages in the cylinder head can also be the cause.
Most of the time it's the pump.

I will add more detailed information here as soon as it comes to hand.


 on: 29, October, 2013, 17:38: 
Started by dominic - Last post by Proxy
Let's start with a question!
Since it looks like a complicated electrical problem we may as well look at the information that is relevant to your model.
Please provide more vehicle information.
A VIN would be a great help in locating accurate data.
Once you have given us the model information I will try to locate technical information for you.

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